Hi +Ray Kholodovsky - I have an Ultimaker Original+ with original board. Is it worthwhile to replace it with a Cohesion3d board?

images/739ad2e92775f336eb2b7f1e250ac2fe.jpeg

“Richard Vowles”

Ray Kholodovsky (Cohesion3D) March 02, 2018 23:48

I was a really good computer salesman, I firmly believed that the best computer for a customer was the one they already had that still worked :)

So, does it work? Are you hitting roadblocks with the current system?

Richard Vowles March 02, 2018 23:50

Ish - its not very accurate and not very fast, but it “works”. I suppose I am asking is will the Cohesion3d add anything to it or is the mechanism in the Ultimaker just too inaccurate to benefit?

Ray Kholodovsky (Cohesion3D) March 02, 2018 23:53

How many extruders?

We can go faster and quieter with one of our boards and Trinamic drivers, possibly add a screen for headless operation to the mix…

Richard Vowles March 03, 2018 00:12

Just the one extruder, thermistor as well I’m pretty sure.

Ray Kholodovsky (Cohesion3D) March 03, 2018 00:14

Mini with Trinamic drivers would be nice for you :)

Actually you should look into that because UM’s now use thermocouples which would be problematic.

Richard Vowles March 03, 2018 00:17

Ok, I’ll check and get back to you

Richard Vowles March 03, 2018 03:08

Ok, it seems to be something called a PT100 B sensor - which I presume is going to cause problems.

Ray Kholodovsky (Cohesion3D) March 03, 2018 03:10

Ok, pt100 is different in other ways. http://smoothieware.org/pt100

Richard Vowles March 03, 2018 03:13

I need to order some of those MAX31865 for thermo-couples as well anyway, so I’ll put it on my list before i order the Mini - thanks!

Ray Kholodovsky (Cohesion3D) March 03, 2018 03:16

I read that as the MAX is not currently supported, only the E3D amp board is.

So I personally enjoy putting new heads and boards in machines, but whether you want to go down that route and replace the hotend is up to you..

Richard Vowles March 03, 2018 03:18

Ah, ok -right, wrong end of the stick then. I’ll give it up then!

Alex Hayden March 03, 2018 05:00

+Richard Vowles does this mean you are not going to fix it?

Richard Vowles March 03, 2018 05:04

Indeed, I’ll leave it as it is…

Alex Hayden March 03, 2018 05:12

Will you still use it? Would you consider a complete rebuild? I mean you already have most of the hardware,

Richard Vowles March 03, 2018 05:14

I don’t have that kind of time. It would be cheaper to buy a Prusa or similar. I’ll just leave it for the stuff where accuracy and speed and reliability aren’t important 😁

Ray Kholodovsky (Cohesion3D) March 03, 2018 05:15

I like upgrading Prusas. I just got Di3 #4 :)

Remco Schoeman March 03, 2018 08:34

If your early ultimaker is not very fast and not very accurate, I have 2 questions for you:

1) do you have the original (32 mm 1.3 inch high and underpowered) motors of the very early ultimakers on the x and y?

2) have you added belt tensioner springs to all 4 long x and y belts?

I have replaced the x and y motors with 48 mm high ones and added belt tensioner springs, and I can print accurately and fast with 150mm/s and rapids of 200mm/s

Remco Schoeman March 03, 2018 08:39

I’ve put your picture under a microscope and can’t see a belt tensioner on the long belt, add one like this on every long belt, and your accuracy will increase significantly, I promise! ;-) also, you can see the bigger motor is sticking out quite a bit. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/iyYP8BxZ4gDo9WPPS8MrNpJC2BeJD2HyuTtAjMmZBh1bs8uSq2qgOjb9efJV2Mjhj4Ntjuirr2M

Richard Vowles March 03, 2018 08:53

Awesome! And they are cheap! Thanks for the tip.

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